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When a Spring Goes in Cold Weather
Why torsion springs on Gilroy's older garage doors crack on cold mornings, what to check first, and what actually drives the cost of the fix.
What to Check
Before you call anyone, look at the spring itself. On most Gilroy garages you've got one or two torsion springs mounted on a shaft just above the door, and a broken one usually shows a visible gap in the coil or the door sitting crooked, heavier on one side. Don't try to lift the door past that point - a broken torsion spring means the opener is doing all the work alone, and that's how openers burn out or cables jump the drum.
Check the cables next. If a spring snapped under tension, the cable on that side can go slack or fray where it rides the drum. Look at the bottom brackets too - on a cold morning a brittle spring sometimes takes a cable clip with it.
If the door won't budge by hand with the opener disconnected, stop there. That's not a DIY torsion job - the coil is still under load and the bar that holds it can take a finger off. Note which side looks broken, whether it's one spring or two, and whether the door is a single wide door or two singles. That's the information a tech needs before they even get a truck loaded.

The Situation
A lot of this comes down to when the house was built. Housing across the service area mostly dates from 1965 to 1989, with a median build year around 1976, and that generation of garage came with torsion hardware sized for a lighter door and a narrower temperature swing than people assume. Steel contracts in the cold, and a spring that's been flexing the same amount for forty-some years has less give left in it to begin with. Add a cold morning and the extra tension from stiffer coils, and that's often the last straw on a spring that was already near the end of its cycle count.
Gilroy sits in a mild climate band with occasional freeze, so this isn't a daily problem - it's a few mornings a year where the temperature drop is enough to matter on hardware that's already aged out. That's actually the harder pattern to plan for than a place with a real winter: owners here don't think about their springs until one lets go on a 38-degree morning, because most of the year the weather never asks anything of the door.
Houses built in that 1960s-70s wave also tend to still have the original spring size stamped for the original door weight, which matters if a prior owner swapped in a heavier insulated door somewhere along the way without upgrading the spring.
What You Pay
I'm not going to quote a number here I don't have in front of me - every job depends on whether it's one spring or two, what wire size and length the door needs, and whether the cables or drums got damaged when the spring went. What I can tell you is what moves the price: single spring versus a matched pair, whether the door is a standard double or two single-car doors, and whether anything else broke when the spring did - a cracked drum or a gouged track adds to the job.
One honest limitation: if your springs are original to a house from that 1965-1989 wave, I'll usually recommend replacing both at once even if only one broke. A spring that's been under the same load for that many decades and just failed tells you its twin is close behind, and paying for one visit now beats paying for two visits six months apart. That's a judgment call I'll walk you through on-site, not something I'll push without showing you why.
How Local Conditions Play In
The mild-with-occasional-freeze pattern here means spring failures cluster on specific cold mornings rather than spreading evenly across winter, which is different from how a true four-season climate wears hardware down gradually. That clustering is also why a spring that's fine every other week of the year can still snap on one particular morning - it's not a steady wear pattern, it's a cold-weather spike on top of decades of slow fatigue.
We cover the ground between here and the surrounding areas - San Martin, Interlaken, Aromas, and out toward Hollister and Watsonville - and the same housing-age pattern holds across a lot of those communities, since much of the stock in the wider service area went up in that same 1960s-70s window. If you're in one of those outlying spots and your spring went on a cold morning, it's very likely the same story: original hardware meeting a temperature swing it wasn't flexing through for most of its life.
Questions
Common questions
Why did my spring break on a cold morning when it's fine the rest of the year?
Steel tightens up as it cools, and a spring near the end of its life has less flex to absorb that. Gilroy's mild climate means only a handful of mornings a year get cold enough to matter, so failures tend to bunch up on those specific days rather than spread through winter.
Is it ever okay to drive the garage door with a broken spring?
No. With one spring broken, the opener carries the full weight of the door, which strains the motor and the remaining hardware fast. If the door won't lift by hand with the opener unplugged, leave it alone and call for the job rather than forcing it.
Should I replace one spring or both?
If your springs are original to a house from the 1960s-70s building wave common here, I usually recommend replacing both even though only one failed - they've carried the same load for the same number of years, and the second one is often close behind.
Do older Gilroy garages need a different spring size than newer doors?
Sometimes. A lot of homes from that era still have the spring sized for the original door. If a heavier insulated door went in at some point without a spring upgrade, that mismatch adds extra strain, especially on a cold morning.
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